EVEREST-2003 - JUBILEE EXPEDITION FROM ST. PETERSBURG, RUSSIA
(See also the latest expedition news on website of one of the organizers, Andrew Yershov
Detailed description of all spring-2003 Everest's events see on MountEverest.net)
May 29 at 9:40 local time, Sergey Larin, member of Russian Adventure Team from Moscow, planted Russian flag on the top of Everest just at the day of the 50th anniversary of 1st Everest's summiting. That time Sergey was being absolutely alone high on the mountain. Two days earlier two other climbers from the same expedition had summited.
About 15:00 local time Nikolay Totmianin reached Everest's summit!
Anatoly Moshnikov (50yrs.), expedition leader, Petersburg, two oxygenless ascents of Everest, ascent of Dhaulagiri),
Nikolay Totmianin (43yrs.), Petersburg, 35 ascents of +7000m peaks, Lhotse up to 8350m,
Marina Yershova, Petersburg, ascents of Cho-Oyu and Shisha-Pangma as expedition leader,
Andrew Dulsky, Irkutsk
Vladimir Belous, Bratsk,
Oleg Nasedkin, Moscow,
Tom Masterton, Canada,
Vladimir Gaidamak, Germany,
Dmitry Priutz, Petersburg, doctor.
Classic Route from the North Col via North Ridge and North-East Ridge.
For the first time, all the expedition members met March 31 in Katmandu and on the next day had left for Tibet. April 8 the Base Camp 5300m had been set up. April 10 the team got start from BC.
By May 4 Camp 1 (7000m) of two tents on the North Col had been installed, Camp 2 (7700m) consisted of one tent and two tents intended for C 2 and C 3 (8300m) were hidden in depot on 7500m. However further advance had been interrupted by auwful winds and resumed only by the middle of the month. Marina Yershova was forced to leave the expedition because of the pneumonia and May 20 arrived to Petersburg.
Summit assault had been decided to be performed with three waves. May 22 in spite of continuous strong wind Nikolay Totmianin and Andrew Dulsky, both without supplemental oxygen, and Vladimir Belous with oxygen had begun their summit climb. The summit had been reached by only Totmianin alone. Andrew and Vladimir turned around because of threat of frostbit. The 2nd and 3rd attacks were postponed up to May 24 due to wind, and two rope teams remained to wait for the weather high on the mountain. By the night of that date no news from them were received.
Finally, all turned to be right. Nikolay started to the summit in a comfortable style - later than 6 a.m. local time. He diddled about 3 hours in bottlenecks but nevertheless had the summit reached about 2:00 p.m. and in the same day came down to the Camp 7800 (less than 5 hours walking from 8300 up to the summit with no supplemental oxygen!). The friends from Siberia stayed the night also on 7800.
The Valkyrian skyline bristled with peaks that I'd been reading about since I was a child. Unburdened and
unhurried, caught up in the simple joy of walking in exotic country, I fell into a kind of trance -
but the euphoria seldom lasted for long. Sooner or later I'd remember where I was headed,
and the shadow Everest cast across my mind would snap me back to attention.
Jon Krakauer. Into Thin Air.
From Katmandu to Base Camp. Photogallery I.